This year is our 14th trip to the island of Ithaca, made special by boarding the very first flight from Manchester to Kefalonia post-lockdown.
Our original booking was earlier in July and cancelled by circumstances but with an offer to carry the booking over to a later date, so when the announcement came that an air bridge was to open a few messages exchanged with old friends ensured that we would have accommodation if we were able to make the journey.
I’ll admit to some trepidation in the days leading up to our departure, wondering if the Greek Government might change their minds, whether the airline would stay solvent, even speculating that a positive test of passengers on arrival could see us all detained.
Equally, some concerns were expressed to me that if we posted our holiday on social media, this might foster some negative comment from those who consider such journeys to be unnecessary travel, given the circumstances.
I’m reminded of the advice given to me by my first ever business coach, Marlene Elliott, in the 1990’s - “Chris, you need to remember that other people’s opinion of you is none of your business”.
I doubt there have been many people more compliant during lockdown than ourselves, so I had no qualms about the decision, given that we were acting within all guidelines.
In the event, hats off to Manchester Airport (you won’t hear me say that very often) and to Jet2, both of whom did an excellent job of boarding and transporting a half-full aircraft of excited but wary travellers.
On arrival at the sparkly new terminal building in “Kef”, we discovered that only around 10 passengers were pulled for random testing and, thus, we found ourselves through passport control, which now includes a check that the necessary QR code has been downloaded from the Greek Government (following online completion of a declaration of “wellness” and location details for track and trace), through baggage and into a Mercedes taxi within 40 minutes.
The sense of relief as we crossed the island to Sami (there to catch a ferry to Ithaca) was immense - we had made it.
After “that first beer and calamari” on the quayside and the short crossing to Piso Aetos, we were elbow bumping Rothes, our island cabbie, and heading to our digs for week #1, at the lovely Bellazzo Cottage.
Traditionally, our first week in Ithaca is for detox, which even in normal circumstances would be welcome. After the trials and tribulations of 2020, we had already discussed and decided that our itenary would be the square root of nothing, until such time as we felt ready to explore.
In the event, that became 4 consecutive days of “eat, drink, read, sleep, repeat”, venturing only as far as the local supermarket for simple breakfast and lunch supplies and the short walk into town each evening to sample the delights of local cuisine.
We began our evenings with a return to Niko’s restaurant and “Mrs Niko” almost fainted with happiness when she saw us on approach - there was no fake customer service here. Beneath her face mask she shared with us (as had others beforehand) just what an economic disaster Covid has been for the island so far this year.
Figures such as “70% down” had been bandied about by various folks we had chatted to during our first hours after arrival. Up to 200 boats in the harbour currently down to less than 30 - effectively, it was as if we had arrived in Vathi during the closed season - but restaurants and bars were open in anticipation of the tourists arriving from this week.
As the first week continued, we saw the gradual arrival of more boats and people - the town came back to life.
Week two saw us transfer less than 100 metres to the lovely Alicelia boutique hotel. We remember the many times we walked past the derelict shell of this property and speculated on what might become of it.
It has been lovingIy refurbished and sports a beautiful sheltered courtyard, my morning sanctuary.
Each year our pilgrimage to Ithaca includes a few days of boat hire that allow us to explore beaches and rocky coves to simply swim and read, sometimes in a secluded bay and, at others, in the socially distant company of the crew of monos, cats and speedboats of all sizes.
No such day is complete without a fast run to the small northern harbour of Frikes where we inevitably take lunch at Rementzo restaurant and watch the world go by over simple but excellent food presented by the owners Nektarios (Nik) and Poppy.
They are a delightful couple who have travelled the world but have made this sleepy village their home and, like so many in tourism, normally work 7 days a week in high season and then take extended breaks during the winter.
Having shared our elbow greeting on arrival, we did have chance to talk about their experience of lockdown and the effects of a season cut in half by coronavirus.
”One of our first decisions was to keep the team on full pay” commented Poppy (bear in mind that the Greek version of furlough provided a seriously lower level of support than we have been blessed with in the UK).
”That became very scary as May moved into June and we didn’t know when the lockdown would ever end - but we decided to hunker down and see what happened. Now, thankfully, we are seeing the return of our customers.”
Nik added “an early decision was that if we could simply cover our operating costs in 2020 and make no profit, that would be an acceptable result.”
”I’d rather lose my money than lose my mind worrying about the team and the business.”
That last comment has me thinking about my own market sector back home.
Have any dentists gone bust as a result of lockdown?
I’d accept humbly any information on stories that I’ve missed but I don’t think that there are many individually owned dental businesses that have vanished (although I’m aware that some micro-corporates have closed - the unsustainable cost of high levels of borrowing? A note of caution for the future).
The reality across my client base is that I’m hearing reports of business booming, firstly with “catch up” and secondly, with new patient enquiries.
What I do know full well is that many dentists have come close to losing their minds in the last four months.
I’ve spent more of my time listening to mental health issues than I have discussing financial forecasting and HR.
Like Nik and Poppy at Rementzo, I’m hopeful that the worst of 2020 is over for you, that patients are returning in increasing numbers and that, although this year may not be your best financially, you will at least keep your sanity.
Last night we had dinner in Perachori, 1000 metres above Vathi and, as we enjoyed yet more good food, wine and conversation with our friends from the Grivas family, I chatted to George Grivas about his own business, Ithaca Travel.
There’s a real sense of excitement on the island at news of the return of flotillas and independent travellers to this beautiful place and its lovely people.
Over the last 48 hours, both Poppy and George shared with us their plans to innovate in 2021, bringing new services to their clients. Such was the influence of the home made wine and the imagination of our friends that, last night, I dreamed of my own business next year and ways in which we could do new things, as well as old things in a new way.
This morning I’ve been busy making notes about that, ready for my return next week.
Innovation is the key to keeping our money and our minds.
Kalimera
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